There are many ways to spend your free time with your dog. You can play football with it, swim, throw apport. If we like to ride a bike, we can also engage our four-legged friend to accompany us on bicycle trips. Are all dogs suitable for this and how to ride a bike with a dog?
If you’re looking for more advice and information, check out the articles about walks here.
Cycling with a dog – a healthy way to spend your free time
Walking a bike with a dog – rules
There are no regulations in the Polish road traffic law regulating driving a dog next to a bicycle. In any case, it is not forbidden and many dog owners take advantage of the possibility of combining a bicycle trip with the amount of exercise that is so important for a pet. However, since there are no regulations, it is not established whether the dog must have the leash fastened when it runs next to the bicycle.
In any case, full responsibility for traffic safety rests with the owner of the dog, so when taking him on a bicycle, it is worth following logic and common sense, and on country and field roads – also local government regulations. First of all, the dog should have a leash, but the leash must never be tied to the handlebars of the bicycle. This is very dangerous as the dog may suddenly spot another dog, cat, bird etc. and jerk to start chasing. Doing so may cause you to lose control of the bike and tip over, which could result in serious injury to both the rider and the dog.
It is worth getting a special lanyard and a bicycle holder, and if necessary, keep the leash in your hand. Correctly, the dog is always running on the right side next to the bicycle. In this way, it is protected against vehicles overtaking the bike on the left side. If local regulations permit the dog to be released loose on side roads, this can be done as long as the dog is obedient and returns when called. However, it should be remembered that it is always forbidden to release the dog without a leash in the forest.
Dog breeds suitable for running alongside a bicycle
Large and medium-sized breeds are widely believed to be the best for cycling. Perhaps this opinion has become entrenched because most amateurs of cycling with a dog have dogs of such breeds. However, there are no restrictions on this matter. Every dog owner can try how to ride a dog on a bike.
In general, a dog must meet several conditions to run alongside a bicycle. First of all, it must be completely healthy and functional. Cycling is definitely not for puppies and very young dogs, as well as senior dogs and overweight pets. Brachycephalic dogs (with a flattened, short muzzle) are also not suitable for running. Small breed dogs can play the “cycling” sport, but they must not be taken for longer distances due to the relatively quick fatigue.
It is best to take a dog of the following breeds for a bicycle walk:
Husky– widely known and popular, accustomed to long runs, a sled dog with high physical endurance
Pointers– this group also includes setters, all types of bracco and pointers. They are all hunting dogs, intended for displaying game, mainly birds, and adapted to persistent running
Alaskan malamute – a large, majestic dog, who loves to run and swim, extremely durable
Border collie – a shepherd dog considered to be the most intelligent breed in the world. He is a born “hard worker” and sportsman. While he is most fond of mental training activity, he looks just as good running alongside the owner’s bike
German Shepherd – the most versatile of the herding and guard races. He has a great need for exercise and is very durable, perfect for jogging and cycling tours
Jack Russell terrier – a small hunting dog, full of temperament, extremely mobile, is a real volcano of energy and can be a perfect companion for cycling trips, although rather not on marathon distances. Also check this article for tips on how to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash.
How to ride a bike with a dog – science, precautions
How to teach a dog to run next to a bike
The most important thing is to check your dog’s reaction to the bike. If he does not pay attention to passing cyclists and does not try to chase him – this is the beginning of success. It starts with walking the bike out and summoning the dog. If he comes and sits down freely, reward him with a treat. After a few such exercises, you can go for the first walk. The dog should be in a harness (not a collar!) And on a leash, and should not eat before the walk.
We choose the straight path for our first walk. First we go on foot, leading the bike with the dog tied to the handle with a leash. If the dog is walking calmly, get on the bike and ride for no longer than 5 minutes. We closely observe the dog and control the speed of travel – it should be such that the dog runs at a free trot. If he is galloping next to the bike, it is imperative to slow down and think about how to calm down the dog – it will probably be best to take a break, give him a drink, stroke him and let him rest.
Gradually, every day we raise the degree of difficulty and extend the distance and time. It is enough if the walk will be longer by 2-3 minutes each day. Only after a few weeks of training will you be able to go on a longer trip. During the walk, you need to take breaks and let the dog drink water, which you take in a bottle or water bottle with a bowl. We do not continue driving immediately after the dog drank, you have to wait a dozen or so minutes. It’s safe because of his stomach.
What you need to know besides how to ride a bike with your dog
We start learning to run with a bike at the age when the dog’s skeleton is already formed. Keep in mind that the larger the breed, the more prone to hip dysplasia it is. Excessive effort at an age when the osteoarticular system is not yet fully formed may lead to its deformation. It is not true that an adult dog cannot learn to run with a bike. For the same reason, you should not force even a dog experienced in running next to a bicycle, and dose the effort safely.
If we plan a bike trip, the dog should not be fed directly in front of it. If we leave very early in the morning, better not eat anything. However, if the start is scheduled at noon, the dog should be given a meal with increased energy (carbohydrate) value early in the morning. After returning and waiting at least an hour, we feed the dog a meal containing mainly protein to regenerate the muscles.
As a general rule, do not feed your dog right before and immediately after exercise. You need to be especially careful with large breeds that have a tendency to twist their stomachs. This ailment can affect a quadruped after exercise with a full stomach and is a direct threat to life – immediate surgery is absolutely necessary to avoid necrosis of the digestive system organs.
Today, together with Vector and Haker, we come to you with a new trick. We will show you step by step how you can teach a lying dog to cross its front paws. This is a very cool trick that not only looks cute in photos or videos, but also improves your dog’s body awareness.
Before we start teaching the dog this trick, it would be good if he could already lie down on the gesture or verbal command and stay in this position until he heard the release command. Of course, you can also lead the dog to a lying position, but if he is not trained to do so, he can get up quickly, and we do not want that.
We will need a few things to learn. Treats that we will reward the dog with will surely be useful. If you know how to use a clicker and your pooch is conditioned to it, you can use it. If your pooch does not know the clicker, we will mark the desired dog behavior with a short, sonorous word “yes”. The last thing we need is a target. I use a yellow cloth for this, but you can use any item here. It is important that it is not too big and clearly visible to the dog.
During the warm-up, we want to teach the dog to touch the target with the front paw. We put the treat on the floor and cover it with a target. We mark with a clicker or a voiced “yes” word every time the target is touched with the dog’s front paw, and of course reward this behavior. Certainly some of your dogs will try to get to the treat with their teeth. In this case, hold the target with your hand to prevent the dog from eating the treat. After a few unsuccessful attempts, the dog will finally start using the front paws.
If your dog knows the “give the paw” command, you can use it during warm-up. We put the target on the hand and ask the dog to give us a paw. We praise him and reward him for carrying out the command. With each subsequent repetition, we keep the hand with the target lower and lower, until we finally put it on the floor. When the dog touches the target lying on the ground with its front paw, we can proceed to the next stage of learning.
Stage 1 Target with the front paw in a supine position
We ask the dog to lie down. Then we put the target between the dog’s front paws. We mark with a clicker or a voiced word “yes” and of course reward each touch of the target with a paw. It is worth looking at which paw the dog is pointing to. After about three attempts, mark and reward the dog for touching the target with only one chosen paw. This will make the next stages of learning easier for us. In the future, of course, you can teach your dog to cross the other paw, but it’s better to do it separately. Otherwise, everything can be wrong for the dog.
My dogs have been taught a lot of muzzle targeting. It is a very useful skill when learning a lot of tricks or when marking the smell in a nasal bag. Unfortunately, when learning how to cross the front paws, we want the dog to target us with its paw, not its mouth. Therefore, if the dog begins to target its mouth, you can simply take the target away and not reward the dog for the behavior. If this problem persists, I advise you to go back to warming up and strengthen your dog for paw targeting.
Stage 2 Crossing the paws
When the dog is happy to touch the target with the selected paw, we can move on to the next stage of learning. With each subsequent repetition, we move the target farther and farther so that the dog finally crosses its front paws. Of course, we still mark and reward touching the target with a paw. In this way, gradually, in small steps, we teach the dog to cross its front paws.
The most difficult moment here is when we carry the target with the paw lying on the ground and ask the dog to cross its paws. Many dogs may find it easier to touch the target with the other paw. That is why consistency is so important when working at an earlier stage. If in the first stage we rewarded the dog only for the target, e.g. with the right paw, now it will be easier for him to understand that we are still asking him to target with the right paw. However, when the dog tries to touch the target with his left paw, we simply take the target away and do not reward him for such behavior. If this error repeats, it is worth returning to the previous stage of the exercise. Remember not to force learning to speed up. It is better to divide the whole training into smaller stages than to demand things from the dog that are still too difficult for him.
Stage 3a We add a gesture
When the dog is nicely crossing the front paws of the target, you can start entering the verbal command and gesture. For most dogs, our body language is more understandable than the words we say. Therefore, entering a gesture is usually simpler than teaching the dog to perform a trick on a verbal command alone.
First, we must, of course, choose a gesture. This may be, for example, a finger pointing where the dog is to put its paw. However, I chose the gesture made with the foot. I want to teach my dog to cross its front paws when I cross my legs. How to teach it? First, it is worth repeating the exercise from the second stage in a standing position. Remember that dogs do not generalize and learn contextually poorly. This means that many details are important for a dog, which we do not always pay attention to, e.g. what position we have when giving a command. Therefore, if you have already exercised with your dog, kneeling or sitting, and you would like to show the gesture while standing, you must first teach the dog to cross its front paws when you are standing in front of it.
When this is achieved, we move on to the next stage of learning. We make a predetermined gesture and put the target in such a place that the dog crosses its front paws. We mark this behavior with a clicker or a voiced “yes” word and reward. After a few successful repetitions, we are trying to withdraw the targeting. We make a gesture and wait if the dog has already guessed what we mean. If so, of course we mark the crossing of the paws, praise the dog and reward. However, when the pooch needs a hint in the form of a target, let’s give it to him. We don’t want him to become unnecessarily frustrated while learning. Remember that it is your job to clearly explain to your dog what you mean.
Stage 3b We add the word command
We also enter the word command in a similar way. You can enter them yourself or combine them with a gesture. If we want the dog to cross its front paws at just a verbal command, we do it similarly to entering a gesture. This time, instead of showing the dog a gesture, we say a verbal command. Then we guide the dog with the target so that it crosses its front paws. After a few successful repetitions, we try to withdraw the targeting and check if the dog can already follow the commands just on the word.
If we have a previously worked out gesture for this trick, the sequence of actions should be as follows. First, we say a verbal command that the dog does not know yet, and only then we show a gesture that is already known to him. Over time, you can start to slowly withdraw the gesture and teach the dog to cross his paws on the verbal command.
Remember that the word you choose for this trick must not be similar to any other commands your dog already knows. My dogs know the word “paw” in various forms. We have an ordinary “paw”, on which dogs put my front paw in my hand. We also have a “paw” command when I ask dogs to get out of the leash during a walk. I also use the words “First paw, second paw, punch … etc.” when wiping mud from paws after a walk. My dogs are taught to raise all four paws one by one for these words. Therefore, in my case, the verbal command to cross the front paws cannot be anything related to the word “paw”. Instead, I use the word “right” for the crossing of the right paw and “left” for the crossing of the left paw. I do not recommend this solution to people who are often wrong on both sides. 😛
I am very curious how you like this trick and will your dogs teach it?
Autumn favors long walks with the dog in forests and fields. Unfortunately, after such a walk, our pet’s paws and abdomen are usually covered with a thick layer of mud. If we do not want it to be in our home, we must thoroughly wash and wipe the dog after a walk. It is also very important in winter when the pavements are sprinkled with salt. If we do not want her to eat painfully on the dog’s paws, we have to wash and wipe them. Well, with this rubbing the paws in many dogs there is a big problem.
On Instagram, more than half of the respondents indicated that their dogs do not like wiping their paws. On Youtube, when asked, “Do your dogs like wiping their paws after a walk?” 69% of people said their dog tolerates it at best, and 23% said their dogs hate wiping their paws.
Why don’t dogs like wiping their paws?
Wiping your paws is not normal for dogs. In nature, no one wipes mud from wild dogs. Therefore, suddenly grabbing the dog’s paws after a walk and trying to rub them forcibly is not the best idea. By doing this, your pooch will at least be surprised by your behavior. In extreme cases, fear and even aggression may also appear. If you want your dog to easily handle rubbing his paws, you must first get him used to this activity.
Many dogs also have quite sensitive paws and don’t like being touched by humans. Perhaps it is also related to the fact that in nature a dog with injured paws cannot get food and is basically doomed to death. If your pooch does not like to lick his paw, even in the form of a trick, he takes it at the last minute so that you do not touch it, stiffens, moves away from you, looks away, licks his nose, yawns, blinks his eyes or shows other signs of stress or threatening signals. like staring at you, snarling etc. you will definitely have to spend more time getting your dog used to wiping his paws.
When to start getting your dog used to wiping their paws?
The sooner we start getting your dog used to wiping his paws, the better. This treatment can be performed in the form of play with small puppies. Don’t wait until fall or winter to get your dog used to wiping his paws. The entire process may take a day or two, but it may also take longer. It is very important to give your dog as much time as he needs. You may find that you do not manage to wipe each paw thoroughly during the first sessions, and this is normal. Therefore, it is best to start getting used to it when it is sunny, dry and it is not necessary to wipe the dog’s paws.
The whole process is best broken down into as small steps as necessary for your dog. Only when the pooch accepts one stage, we move on to the next. You cannot rush or force anything here. We want to gain the dog’s trust and make him feel calm and safe while wiping his paws.
It is worth getting your dog used to wiping his paws by getting him used to just touching them. This is the first, necessary step not only when washing or wiping the paws, but also, for example, when trimming a dog’s claws. It is best to start getting your dog used to touching his paws when he is rushing, tired, full, and when all his basic needs are met. We can gently reach lower and lower towards the fingers by stroking the dog’s shoulder blade or thigh. It is important that our touch is calm and pleasant for the dog. We do not grasp his paw by force, but we also do not tickle him too softly. During such stroking, we praise the dog with a calm voice. You can also reward him with a treat for his calm behavior. Over time, the dog will allow us to touch not only his shoulder blades or thighs, but also knees, elbows, and finally fingers and claws. As soon as your dog starts sending you anxious signals, take a short break. Give him a rest and return to a more pleasant touch.
Once your dog is letting them touch its paws, it can begin to get used to it to pick them up. We put a hand on the dog’s shoulder and slide down slowly. Many dogs don’t like to be grabbed by their fingers, so it’s better to grab a little higher. Then we slightly raise the dog’s paw to a small height, praise, reward and put the paw back on the floor. We do the same with the hind legs. We put a hand on the thigh, slide down, grab the metatarsus and gently lift the hind leg. We praise the dog and reward it for its calm behavior. If the pooch is not behaving calmly, we go back to the previous stage, i.e. getting him used to the touch.
When lifting the dog’s paws up, it is worth paying attention not to bend them in an unnatural, uncomfortable way for the dog. It is often more convenient for us to wipe the dog’s paw when we raise it higher or when we move it closer to each other. However, it is worth taking into account the fact that the dog may have problems with maintaining balance in an unnatural position for him. We should also make sure that the dog stands on a stable, non-slippery surface when lifting the paws. If your floor is slippery, it is a good idea to put a towel or non-slip mat over it.
I like to put a password to picking dogs’ paws. This is not a formal command like “give a paw”, but rather a message to the dog that I will be lifting its paw up. Thanks to this, the pooch knows what awaits him and has time to prepare for this activity. Before lifting the first paw, I always say “first paw,” before lifting the second paw, “second paw,” etc. After saying these words, I give the dog a moment to prepare to raise a particular paw. I always try to pick them up in the same order. Thanks to this, the dog knows what will happen and after some time it starts giving me another paw. It is worth introducing yourself such a ritual after each walk. This will give the dog a more predictable sense of what will happen and make the dog feel more confident in this situation.
Touching the towel with the paws
The next step in getting your dog used to wiping his paws should be teaching him to touch the towel with his paws. Thanks to this game, your pooch will not only not be afraid of the towel, but will also positively associate it. To teach your dog to touch a towel with his paws, simply place the treat on the ground and cover it with the towel. Then ask the pooch to look for the hidden treat. As soon as his paw touches the towel, you can mark it with a clicker or a sonorous word “yes” and give the dog an additional reward.
If your pooch knows the command “give a paw” you can take advantage of it. Take the towel in your hand and ask the dog to give you the paw by placing it on the towel. Many dogs do this exercise much more willingly than the classic handing of a paw to an empty human hand. Unfortunately, when training with a dog to pass the paw, we often have a tendency to squeeze the dog’s fingers and wave the entire paw, which dogs usually do not like very much. As soon as the pooch puts his paw on the towel by himself, praise him and give him a treat.
Give your dog a choice
A sense of security and control, especially in a stressful situation, is extremely important not only for dogs, but also for us. Just think how you feel at the dentist when you trust him that he does not want to hurt you and you know that you can ask for a short break in tooth drilling at any time. How would you feel if you weren’t sure the dentist wouldn’t hurt you, and if all your requests for a break while drilling were ignored? It is exactly the same for a dog that does not trust a human being and whose paws are held down or lifted forcibly. Therefore, watch your dog’s behavior. Learn to read the first signs of stress and respond accordingly.
Body language is very important when wiping our paws. It is definitely better to sit on the floor or crouch and invite the dog to come to us than to chase him with a towel or bend over him. Bending over a dog is especially stressful for puppies and little dogs. I would also be afraid if a giant several times bigger than me wanted to grab my leg and lift it up. The dog’s approach to you is the first sign that it is ready to wipe its paws. What if, despite the encouragement, the dog refuses to approach you? In such a situation, it is worth getting back to getting him used to the touch and lifting his paws.
However, when the pooch comes up, you can reach out with a towel and say, for example, “first paw, punch”. If the pooch has been taught this slogan well beforehand, he knows that we expect a paw. The towel with our slogan is therefore an invitation for the dog to wipe its paws. Then we wait for the dog to give us the paw. This is the moment when we give him the opportunity to choose. He can give us a paw and receive a lot of praise and treats, or not give us this paw. Let us respect the choice of the dog here. If, for some reason, he is not yet ready to give us a paw, that’s too bad. We’ll try next time. I think now you can see why it is worth starting the whole process when it is dry and when it is not necessary to wipe your dog’s paws.
Training in which we give the dog the opportunity to choose a given behavior takes more time than force action. However, by force wiping a dog’s paws against his will makes the dog stressful and loses his trust in us. So with time he will avoid this unpleasant situation more and more. When all calming and threatening signals are ignored by the handler, the dog will eventually resort to aggressive behavior. At best, we’ll have to deal with wiping the dog’s paws all our lives, and at worst we’ll be bitten by it. However, in the case of training, in which we give the dog the opportunity to choose and have greater control of the whole situation, we build a relationship based on understanding and trust. Such a relationship will translate into the dog’s behavior not only when wiping its paws, but also in other stressful situations.
When looking for a Purebred dog, many people only think about one dream breed. The offers of small dogs of such breeds as pinscher, westie, york, chihuahua and pomeranian (i.e. miniature spitz) are very popular. The problem, however, is that normally well-run dogs are expensive. Discount seekers will always, however, find an opportunity and hit an advertisement where purebred dogs are offered for free or at least half free. So let’s see how to spot real scam ads.
Holy Grail – purebred puppies for free
Legends say that there are cases of free donation of purebred puppies. The problem is that while browsing through hundreds of ads, we’ve never seen a 100% real offer of this type. Usually it turned out that something was wrong with the advertisement after all.
There is a demand for purebred dogs, there must be advertisements and attempts to cheat. Some of the ads are real, others are not. Moderators on classifieds websites try to catch the more suspicious ones, but sometimes something passes. Let’s see what to expect and how to spot a scam!
Unfortunately, most of the ads that grab the attention of all bargain hunters are, unfortunately, fiction. Such advertisements are added to extort personal data or “obtain” an advance payment for a puppy’s reservation. There are also cases that theoretically the dog is completely free – you only have to cover the costs of shipping from some country to Poland. For example, $ 100 payable before shipping. The content of the advertisement depends only on the creativity of the adder. You have to be careful not to be deceived!
How to recognize a fictitious advertisement?
Most often, the content of the advertisement is written in broken Polish. Reading the description, it’s easy to spot strange statements. If something sounds unusual – read it a second time.
Below is an example of the content of an advertisement that has been rejected by site moderators:
“Wonderful puppies Pomeranian Teacup, 1 male and 1 female, AKC registered. Parents are the family’s pets; both mum and dad weigh 4 pounds. They are all loving, friendly and very fun. They grew up with children and other animals. Knotted tails and dewclaws removed, veterinary check included and first set of kicks for the dog. “
“Beautiful puppies of West Highland White Terrier breed The puppies were veterinary tested, potty trained, wormed with microchips. “
Another example (this time labrador puppies for free):
“Top quality puppies with all health information and toy accessories for puppies. They stay up to date with shots that do well with children and other pets. These cute puppies are waiting for you “
As you can see, you don’t even need to be particularly vigilant to notice that something is wrong here. Also pay attention to how the sender writes back the correspondence with you. Any strange statements should make you alert!
The second thing is photos. They usually do not represent the dogs that are actually for sale. These are photos taken from some source. Easily verify the origin of the photo with the help of Google’s image search engine.
In the case of the advertisement from which the first cited description came, the photo was copied directly from a facebook profile:
Another important point – always check who is issuing the advertisement. Usually, suspicious content is displayed by people without a Polish name, such as John Cosworth, Millano, Antonio, Margaritha and others.
Adult purebred dogs to donate or at a low price
These are ads that are usually true. In general, they are not pedigree dogs (although there are also pedigree dogs), but dogs that are of the breed type or very similar to them. In the case of an adult dog, we can already see the end result and it is easier to judge whether it is this breed or another, and whether we like such a dog or not.
Advertisements with purebred dogs for donation are most often issued by shelters. Larger facilities share information about the breed – if identified. It also happens that people want to give the dog back for some important reasons and look for a good home for him. At the Seller, as of the day of writing the article, we have over 780 offers of dogs to give away for free: https:// Sprzedawacz.pl/zwierzeta/psy/psy_zwierzeta/ Most of them come from shelters. If we look for purebred animals (or in the type of a given breed), it turns out that most dogs are between 5 and 10 years old! Dogs of the type of selected breeds currently account for about 10% of advertisements.
Adopting an adult dog is also a very good idea. Perhaps sometimes even better and simpler than raising a puppy. On the one hand, we already know what will grow out of him or her. On the other hand, during adaptation visits, we can get to know the character. From the third, we help and we can make a great friend and give him a new home. There are several more reasons for choosing an adult dog, but you still need to know if you want a dog that is already several years old.
Almost purebred dogs and puppies without pedigree
If the father and mother of the dog are known and both animals are of the type of a given breed, there is a chance that, despite the lack of a pedigree, you will be able to occasionally buy a dog of the breed you want – although formally it will not be purebred. Remember, however, that if a dog is cheap, all possible breeding costs are probably cut. Alternatively, someone actually does does not deal breeding and simply the female dog gave birth to puppies that need to be distributed or sold cheaply. Check what is the real source of such a dog.
Almost purebred puppies are those where we can be sure that the mother is of the X type and the father is unknown. The question is whether the person issuing the advertisement will tell you about it? As a result, it may turn out that the father was a dog of a larger breed than the mother was. What if York weighs 15 kg when he grows up? When buying or taking such a dog for free, you must take this possibility into account. If you accept that the dog will be different, that’s great. If his raciality was the key to you, then don’t go this way!
True purebred dogs (with pedigree)
When the breed of a puppy is a priority for you, do not compromise, just pay the market price and be sure that the dog will be exactly what you expect. Pedigree dogs are, unfortunately, expensive. The cultures have to meet the standards and all the associated stuff costs more. Only registered dog kennels together with the dog provide the owner with a birth certificate. The price is higher, but you can be sure what will grow out of a puppy!
Interestingly, if you decide to choose a fully purebred dog, you will also get to know its family tree. Yes, you will know who your dog’s grandfather was!
Dogs see the world very differently than we do. Their senses work differently from ours. Their brains process information differently. Dogs also have their own means of communication that are often unavailable to us. All this makes trying to get along with the dog can be much more difficult than we think. Therefore, it is good to create a common language that will be understandable both to us and our dogs. Improve your Relationship with your Dog can be very helpful in creating such a language.
What are markers?
In general, markers are all signals that help us communicate with the dog. These can be sound markers, e.g. words spoken by us or the sound of a clicker, visual markers, e.g. gestures, various objects and tactile markers. The latter are especially useful when working with dogs that cannot see and hear. For such dogs, touching the shoulder blade, ear, or mouth can provide the clearest signal.
The use of markers during training makes it easier for the dog to understand us. Thanks to this, he is less frustrated, better focused on the task and learns new commands much faster. Markers can be used both during training sessions and in everyday communication with the dog.
Types of markers
We can distinguish at least six types of markers depending on their function in communication with the dog.
The readiness marker is usually the dog’s name. When uttering them during training, we ask the dog, “Hey, are you ready to go?” When the dog looks at us, we have a clear affirmative answer and we can give him an order. When we don’t have the dog’s attention, the chance that it will obey our command drops drastically. We also need to focus on the task in order to do it well. When our thoughts are elsewhere, we may not even hear that someone is asking us for something, and it looks similar in our dogs.
For many dogs, a sachet of treats or toys can be a marker of readiness, i.e. a signal to start work. If these accessories always appear during training, the dog will quickly recognize them. Our clothes can also be a marker of readiness. Dogs know perfectly well in which shoes we go to work and which shoes are intended for a walk or training. For some dogs, entering a designated area is a marker of readiness. There are many possibilities here.
Reward markers tell your dog that they are doing something right, may be finished, and that they will be rewarded in a moment. A popular marker for a reward is the clicker sound. It is very precise, so we can mark exactly the behavior we want. It is also unambiguous, repeatable and unique, so the dog will not confuse it with other sounds in the environment.
We can also use short voiced words such as “yes”, “si” or “tak” as a reward marker. It is best to chant them differently from the words used in everyday life. We don’t want common words to get confused dog with a reward marker. It is also very important that this award always appears after the award signal. It doesn’t always have to be a treat. Many dogs prefer to work for example for playing with their handler.
You can also have many different reward markers depending on what the reward will be and where it will appear. For example, we can use a clicker as a food marker. The word “have” may mean that food will appear on the ground, and the word “catch” may be an announcement of a toy that we will throw to the dog as a reward for correctly carrying out a command.
No reward markers
The lack of reward marker is a signal for the dog that something went wrong and that this time it will not get the reward. The most commonly used markers of no reward are the words “no”, “ee”, or “ooh.” After saying these words, we simply do not give the dog a reward, which of course is a kind of punishment. It can be compared to playing with the heat of the cold, where warm means we’re getting closer and cold means we’re farther away. Likewise, in communicating with the dog, we can use a clicker or other reward markers to inform him that he is doing something right and markers of lack of reward when he does something carelessly or wrong.
On the one hand, the more feedback you give your dog during training, the better. Try to play with heat cold, using only the word “warm”. Achieving a goal this way is usually much more difficult and frustrating than in play where we get both pieces of information. On the other hand, many people misuse the no reward signal. Words like “no” and “ee” are usually characterized by negative emotions. The no reward marker should be emotionally neutral. You cannot take your frustration or anger out on the dog. If you can’t control your own emotions, you’d better not use the no reward marker. It will also not work for dogs with a very delicate psyche. For such dogs, any dissatisfaction on the part of the handler creates enormous pressure, which these dogs simply cannot cope with.
Also, the no reward signal may not be used when the dog does not know what is required of him or when he does not know what exactly he did wrong. Imagine a situation where you learn a foreign language from scratch and the teacher constantly says “no”, “wrong” etc. This method of learning will not be effective and will quickly discourage you. Imagine a situation where you read a longer piece of text to your teacher and the teacher says “no” at some point. Does it give you clear information when you made a mistake and what exactly was it? Without clear guidance from the teacher, it is not so obvious.
It is similar with the marker of lack of reward when training the dog. The dog often does not know what he has done wrong and how he can correct it. It only adds to the frustration and does not get any closer to achieving the goal. Therefore, when the dog is not following a command correctly, it is usually best to simply go back to an earlier stage in learning. Before demanding anything from a dog, we must make sure that it knows exactly what we mean.
Due to all the reservations and mistakes that are very easy to make, I advise you to be very careful when introducing no reward markers into your training. If you decide to use them, it’s best to do it under the supervision of a more experienced trainer.
When training a dog, we often not only want him to assume a position, e.g. sit or lie down, but also to keep this position for a long time. This is where the continuation markers are very helpful, that is, popular praise such as “bravo” or “good”. Hearing these words, the dog knows that he is doing well and that he has to continue this behavior in order to get a reward.
Unfortunately, many dog handlers forget about these praises. They say, for example, “sit down”, the dog sits down for two seconds, but nothing happens, there is no human feedback. The dog may feel that he is doing something wrong. So she gets up and sits down again. Nothing again? This begins to give the paw, lie down, and display other behaviors that previously rewarded. This way the dog tries to guess what you really mean. If your dog is behaving this way, it is very possible that your communication during training is not the best and it is worth introducing continuation markers.
Another very useful marker is the release marker. I wrote a little more about him in this post. The release marker tells the dog that the exercise is over and that he can do something else. For example, when we teach the dog to sit down and extend this position, it is worth teaching him that a speed marker will appear at the end of the exercise. In my case it’s the word “ok”, but you can also use other words like “already”, “can” or “run”. Thanks to this, the dog does not get impatient, but calmly waits for the release marker. Without this marker, the dog may break commands frequently, as it will never know when the exercise is over.
The End Marker can be used at the end of a training session or at the end of a game. An excited dog may not know when a training session is over and will demand our attention long after it is over. Therefore, it is worth introducing an end marker, which means “This is the end of training / fun. You are free, do what you want. ” For me, it is the word “end”, but I also encountered the command “free” or “thank you”. After issuing the end marker, we hide the treats, toys and do not take care of the dog. We don’t play with him. We don’t give any orders anymore.
How to enter markers
It is possible that you are already using some of these markers in a more or less conscious way. It is very important to systematize them and create your own dictionary of communication with the dog. Think in what situations and why you want to use the marker. What word, sound or gesture will the marker mean. If this is not clear to you, how is your dog going to get it?
Of course, all people training with a dog should use the same dictionary. Dogs are very intelligent, and even if one person uses a marker and another doesn’t, the dog will figure out what’s going on over time. However, this is an additional difficulty for the dog, which significantly extends the training and may be a source of unnecessary frustration for the dog. It is as if he had to speak a different language to each member of the family.
It is also important to teach each marker that we use in communication with the dog first. Dogs aren’t born knowing what a clicker sound means or words like “ok”, “bravo” or “finished”. At the beginning, all these sounds are neutral for the dog and only we, during appropriate training, give them meaning.
I am very curious, which markers do you consciously or unconsciously use in communicating with your dogs?
Want to learn more about Border Collie training? The breed was developed in the Anglo-Scottish border region. They were primarily used for herding livestock. The Border Collie was specifically bred for obedience and intelligence to function as a herding and working dog.
They are very intelligent, extremely energetic as well as athletic and acrobatic. Even though they are now considered as just normal household pets, they are still used to herd livestock in various regions across the world.
The Border Collie is a medium-sized dog with a thick coat that sheds often. This means that buying a Border Collie will mean you need to invest in grooming it often.
The Right Age to Begin with Border Collie Training
It’s best to start with Border Collie training earlier rather than later. The first steps of training will entail the usual house training regime. Read this article for some specific guidelines to house train a Border Collie puppy.
Next you can start with the basic commands of sit and stay. For more difficult tricks, wait until your puppy is at least four to five months old. Leave the advanced tricks until they are between seven to eight months old.
How to Start With Border Collie Training
Because Border Collies are so intelligent, training is relatively easy. But high intelligence also means that your Border Collie will need lots of stimulation to keep it busy. It’s important to be aware of your dog’s energy level and to adjust your interaction with it accordingly.
To understand Border Collies you need to take into consideration their heritage. Because they were bred as helping or ‘working dogs’ it is important to invest time in Border Collie training to help your dog live up to its full potential.
If you do not provide enough stimulation for your Border collie, the dog might start suffering from obsessive behavior. This is a common problem that often pops up in this specific breed. Imagine losing your job and being stuck at home all day with nothing to do. That feeling of frustration is basically the equivalent of what your Border Collie will experience without proper training and constructive interaction.
Because of their high intelligence level, Border Collies can be very strong-willed. When starting with Border Collie training you will have to establish firm leadership over your dog from the beginning. Because dogs are pack animals, they need a sense of hierarchy. If you want your Border Collie to obey you, you’ve got to let them know you are the alpha male/female of the “pack” (aka your home).
You need to keep their hyperactivity in mind when you consider buying a Border Collie. If you don’t lead a very active life, this breed might not be ideal for you. To ensure that your Border Collie does not become frustrated, you will have to commit to lots of playtime with it and taking your dog for long daily walks is also advisable.
What will happen if you don’t stimulate your Border Collie? You will have to deal with various behavioral problems such as biting, nipping and continuous barking. They are a highly adjustable breed, but if you live in an apartment without an outdoor area, this breed might not be ideal for you.
Key Factors of Successful Border Collie Training
Being a working dog, Border Collies love routine. If you don’t stick to a regular routine, your dog will become very frustrated and start acting out with bad behavior. Remember, you’re dealing with a highly intelligent dog, nothing gets past them, they understand much more than you might think. Basically they require constant mental stimulation.
When your Border Collie does not get adequate exercise, it will become irritable and over-possessive. This is when the dog starts acting out by nipping people as well as other dogs. They are not naturally aggressive, but when not treated well the dog will become very difficult to manage.
They are very loyal and obedient if you stick to the Border Collie training guidelines. But you need to be aware that having a Border Collie is a big time and energy commitment. They integrate well with other dogs and it might be best to rather get two Border Collies so that they can entertain each other.
Even though they are relatively easy to train, their over-enthusiastic behavior can make it a challenge. Border Collies have an inherent herding instinct that you need to channel into the right behavior, otherwise your dog can become a big nuisance, chasing cars and kids running around.
Three Golden Rules of Border Collie Training
The trick with dog training of any kind, is to understand what makes your dog tick. Especially a working dog breed such as the Border Collie needs a sense of purpose to their lives.
#1 Keep Your Dog’s Attention
You need to keep your dog’s full attention on the training task at hand. An untrained Border Collie’s attention will be all over the place and their mood swings really quickly. To an extent you need to read your dog’s mood, only train when the dog’s energy levels are high. This is why creating a routine is so important, this way your dog will anticipate the training every day. And if you make it a fun activity your dog will look forward to it.
Tip:pick a quiet spot without any distraction for your daily training routine
#2 Be Consistent
Your dog will be able to learn quicker if you are consistent in the training process. Rather focus a little bit longer on a specific command or trick to make sure your dog has completely grasped it. Start with simple and clear instructions. For instance, pick a name for a specific command and stick to it.
Especially when it comes to Border Collie training and house rules, you need to remain consistent. Keep in mind you’re dealing with the most intelligent dog breed. Your dog will become confused if one day it can jump on the couch without being reprimanded and the next day you scold it for doing the same thing.
#3 Lots of Affirmation and Encouragement
Border Collies like learning things, so you don’t have to force them. This is one of the big benefits of dealing with an intelligent dog breed. If you include lots of praise in your Border Collie training routine, your dog will be like putty in your hand. Positive reinforcement is your best method of training for Border Collies.
The best type of reprimanding for Border Collies, is not giving them attention. All you need to do is say “bad dog” and ignore them for an hour or so after the unwanted behavior and they will quickly stop breaking the rules. Read this article for some do’s and don’ts of positive reinforcement, discussed by the Dog Whisperer.
Tips for Kick-starting Your Border Collie Training
Start With Research
Read up as much as possible about the dog breed. The more you understand how your dog’s head works, the easier it will be to use effective Border Collie Training techniques.
Socialize Your Dog
Your dog needs to learn how to properly interact with both humans and dogs. This is one of the most important aspects of Border Collie Training, you want to a raise a dog that is pleasant to have around. If you do not invest enough time into the training from the beginning, it will only become more and more difficult to manage your dog.
Lots of Exercises and Physical Activity
Sufficient mental and physical stimulation is crucial if you want your Border Collie to lead a happy life. And a happy dog means a happy owner. It’s great if you have a big yard where your dog can run around and play. It’s an even bigger bonus if your Border Collie has a doggy friend to interact with. But it’s important to take your Border Collie outside its home confines. A daily walk is preferable, but if your schedule does not allow this, try for at least one outing a week.
Keep the Border Collie Training Simple
Yes, your dog is very intelligent. But you need to remember that just like a baby that needs to build up skills, your puppy has a lot to learn before it can successfully obey you. Don’t make the commands complicated. Try “fetch” instead of “Go Fetch” or just “sit” instead of “sit down” to avoid confusion.
Stick With the Same Trainer
A Border Collie is used to having one master. This comes from their heritage of being working dogs. So decide who in the family will be in charge of the training sessions. Your Border Collie Training will be much more effective this way and your dog will learn much faster.
Dogs are very sensitive to the moods of their owners. If you show frustration with your dog, it will become flustered and the training will be much trickier. Do not scream at your dog, a gentle voice will yield much better results. You can’t make your dog submit to you. You have to win the trust of the dog and then it will willingly obey you.
Keep the Herding Instincts in Mind
This is a big part of the Border Collie nature. You can train your dog to control the urge to herd, but it will always remain a part of its nature. So you will have to learn how to deal with it effectively. Read this article to learn more about taming the herding instinct of Border Collies.
Border Collie Training Videos
Conclusion – Border Collie Training
Border Collies make lovely companions and family pets. By learning more about this intelligent dog breed, you can create a very cooperative extra house member. But you need to be aware of the commitment it will take to successfully deal with this particular breed.
What strange obsessions does your Border Collie have? Any odd herding stories?
Boxer puppy training can be a challenge, they’ve been labelled the “Peter Pan” of dog breeds. They are only considered mature by the time they’re three years old, meaning that in the world of dogs they have a very long puppyhood.
On face value they might look very intimidating with their muscular build and square heads, but if you look closer, you will find a glint of mischief in their eyes. They have boundless energy and are always in the mood for a bit of playing.
Characteristics of a Boxer Puppy
Boxer Puppy Training
A typical Boxer puppy is alert, fearless, intelligent and friendly. They are a loyal dog breed, but quite headstrong. Trying to use harsh training methods will not go down well with a Boxer puppy, you will get lots of resistance. The best way to describe a Boxer is exuberant. They can also be trained to become search-and-rescue helpers and they make excellent watchdogs. When trained correctly, they can excel in obedience.
Boxers are great with kids, showing immense gentleness and patience. Boxers are very adaptable, but need lots of exercise and mental stimulation, otherwise they will become frustrated and unruly. Because of their intense loyalty towards their families, Boxers can be distrustful of strangers. But they won’t be aggressive unless a threat is perceived. They are energetic, high-spirited and happy, amusing their owners.
Did you know? Boxers make a unique sound, called “woo-woo,” when they get excited or want something. Not quite a bark, it literally sounds like they are saying “woo-woo”.
Before you decide to buy a Boxer puppy, you need to decide if you can deal with their high level of energy and need for attention. Also, if you don’t like drooling dogs, a Boxer is not the dog for you. They snore loudly as well.
Prep for the Training Process
You need to keep the Boxer’s exuberant personality in mind when you decide what kind of training program you will be using. It is crucial to be consistent with your training method. Start with Boxer puppy training, before the dog gets too big to manage.
They are an intelligent breed and will respond well to firm training, as long as you make it fun for them. They have quite an independent streak, so won’t like you bossing them around or being treated harshly. Keep in mind that Boxers mature slowly, so you will be dealing with the rambunctious puppy style of interaction for quite a few years.
Don’t leave your Boxer alone for too long, or keep it cooped up in the backyard away from the family. You will quickly be dealing with a destructive and ill-tempered dog.
Tip: find a responsible breeder to buy your dog from. Avoid a pet store or puppy mill. A reputable breeder will test their dogs to ensure that the puppies are free of any genetic diseases and also make sure that they have stable temperaments.
Reward-based Boxer puppy training works best. Give them a little treat for getting a new command right and your Boxer puppy will remain easy to manage. Keep your dog on its toes so to speak by mixing up the treats and the verbal praises. First start with the basic commands. Boxers enjoy a good challenge, so steadily increasing the difficulty level will keep their attention for longer.
Starting with Boxer Puppy Training
Boxer Puppy Training
One of Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer’s, biggest secrets for dog training is that your dog needs to know its place in the pack. As soon as your Boxer puppy gets sniff in the noise that it can do whatever it likes and get away with it without any consequences, your task of training it will become extremely difficult.
You need to show your Boxer puppy that you are the pack leader and that it needs to know its place in the family hierarchy. Because Boxers are so loving, they are eager to please you, something that you can harness in your Boxer puppy training method.
The training process starts the moment you bring the new puppy home. From the beginning you need to react properly to whatever your puppy does, good or bad behavior. With an intelligent Boxer puppy you need to remain consistent.
The first step in your Boxer puppy training, is establishing good routines. This will be reassuring to your puppy adjusting to a new and unfamiliar environment. Find a special place for your puppy’s water and food bowls and stick to it. Create a special spot to place your puppy’s bed and take it to same spot for bathroom breaks each time.
Try to feed your puppy at the same times each day and try to create a consistent bed time as well. The daily routine is a very important step to start with. Your Boxer puppy is highly intelligent, teaching it to follow specific daily routines will help you raise a well-behaved dog.
Failing to set these boundaries into place will let your puppy turn to the alternative, it will set the pace of your home life, deciding how you should fit into its life. You will be dealing with a disruptive dog that will frustrate any attempt to relearn the basic home life behavior.
The Most Important Words Your Puppy Will Ever Learn
It is estimated that dogs can understand up to 165 words. What are the two most important words your dog must understand? “Good” and “No”. For anything that you like your dog doing, use “good” and for whatever you want it to stop doing, use “no”.
Incorporating praise and correction words into your Boxer puppy training should start from when your puppy is about two to three months old. It’s important to teach these words with the correct tone of voice and body language as well. Dogs can read emotions, human owners have claimed this for years, but there is now scientific evidence to prove this speculation.
What this new research also implies, is that your dog is much smarter than you think. Same as with a human baby, you can’t just think “it’s just a puppy, it won’t understand”. It probably understands much better than you could ever imagine.
You can use your Boxer’s temperament to your advantage, by playing on its need for acceptance in your family. Show it the rules of the house that it needs to obey for acceptance, and your Boxer puppy training project will be much easier.
It might be tempting to almost bribe your Boxer puppy into submission with biscuit treats as rewards, but this will backfire. The problem with this style of training, is that your puppy can then decide when it wants to obey, based on how hungry it is.
Only using treats will make your puppy believe that it’s in charge of the training process. You can use it per occasion when you’re teaching it a special trick, but for basic obedience, you need to focus on respect training.
Respect is linked to the concept of establishing a pack hierarchy in your home. Your Boxer puppy training will be most successful when your puppy learns that it needs to submit to your authority if it wants to live in happy co-existence with you.
The opposite of successful training, is your puppy understanding the routines and command words, but deciding when it wants to follow them. Again, you need to remain consistent with your Boxer puppy training to ensure that you have a well-behaved adult dog.
Your Boxer puppy will love the challenge of trying to understand you. Slowly add new words to the obedience training and watch it trying to follow your instructions closely until it gets them right. By giving it the reassurance that it’s doing the correct thing that you want, you will be training a submissive puppy that obeys your every command.
Creating a Safe Space for Your Puppy
When you decide to buy a puppy, you need invest in a good bed for it. Taking the Boxer size into consideration, a crate is the best of option for it. This will be its safe space, a secure den. During your Boxer puppy training you can use it as a time-out, telling your puppy to “go to your bed”.
Boxers might be on the big side of the dog breed spectrum, but they are very sensitive to weather extremes, so it is best if you can create a space for your dog to sleep indoors. Managing a medium size dog in your home, you want it to understand the command “go to your bed” when it becomes too excited. The crate will serve the purpose of a safe space for the dog to calm down again. You might soon notice that your puppy seeks out the crate on its own to unwind.
Another good thing of making your Boxer puppy comfortable with confined spaces, is that you will have less hassles transporting it to the vet in a dog cage or cooped up in the backseat of your car.
Other Boxer Puppy Training Tips
There are many other aspects to Boxer puppy training, but you first need to get the basics in place before moving on to the next phases. Once you’ve created a steady routine for your new puppy and established the general behavior boundaries, you can move on to more complex training aspects.
You need to start handling your puppy from a young age to make it familiar with grooming routines such as bathing and clipping nails. Before you start taking it for walks outside, place the collar on your puppy so that it can get used to walking on a lead. First walk with the lead on in your garden so that it can get used to you gently yanking on the collar to redirect its exploration.
The training you instill while your Boxer is a puppy, will determine what kind of adult dog you will be dealing with. You can teach your dog to have basic good manners, such as not jumping up against visitors. All you need is consistency in correcting the unwanted behavior. And you don’t have to whack the bad behavior out of your puppy, use the word “no” with a firm tone of voice and a loud clap of your hands so that your puppy can make the association with the unwanted behavior.
The most important thing to remember with Boxer puppy training is that your Boxer is very intelligent and wants to gain your acceptance at all cost.
Want to work with animals? Want to help people? Becoming a service dog trainer is one of the best ways to both work with animals and helping people. To achieve that you want to know how to become a service dog trainer!
A service dog trainer is someone who trains dogs who will go on to be owned by a disabled person. For disabled people, tasks that we do every day, such as picking up dropped items, closing doors and generally getting around, can be tough. Having a trained dog can seriously help a disabled person, and even give them a new lease of life. It’s not uncommon for a disabled person and a service dog to have an unbreakable bond, as these dogs are trained to be loyal and compassionate to their owners.
Steps to become a service dog trainer
It can be extremely rewarding to be a service dog trainer. Not only do you get to spend time with creatures who you have an affinity with, you are also aware that your hard work is helping create life-long companions for some of the most vulnerable people in our society. So how do you become a service dog trainer?
1. Volunteer your time
Generally the best way to become a service dog trainer is to gain practical experience working with dogs and learning on the job. You may already have your own dog, but this experience is not enough. You need to be in an environment where you are meeting lots of dogs. Ring all your local dog shelters and see if you can volunteer your time. You could also try ringing veterinarian surgeries, animal hospitals and kennels – anywhere where there will be many breed of dogs for you to meet and gain experience with how to become a service dog trainer. The more experience you gain, the better. Many people dream of being a service animal trainer. Having lots of experience with different breeds will help you have the edge over the competition.
2. Search for conferences, classes or workshops
Look for service dog training classes or workshops in your area. They are likely to be held by universities or community colleges. You want to look for courses that specialize in breeds, temperament, dog behavior, animal health issues, and how to become a service dog trainer.
3. Search for a service dog training program
Search for an apprenticeship course on how to become a service dog trainer. A good place to look is the National Association of Service Dogs or the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers. You will be taught by an experienced service dog instructor. These courses can be long (on average around 4 years) as there is a lot for you to learn, such as training dogs in public access skills, manners, and completing tasks to help people with issues with sight, hearing and mobility. Although a long course, this can be very gratifying, especially as you will come into contact with members of the public who have disabilities, and teach them how to work and look after their service dogs.
4. Check if you require a license in your state
Some states require you to obtain a license to become a service dog trainer. Check with your state attorney general’s office to see if you need one in your state.
5. Get a job!
By this stage, you would have had many years of experience with dogs, as well as the skills to train dogs to be effective service animals, and the skills to train disabled people on how to work their service dog. It’s time to apply for a position as an instructor. Search online for ‘service dog trainer’ positions. Different employers will want different things. But in most cases, you will be expected to be physically fit as most service animals are large, sprightly dogs, such as Golden Retrievers, Labradors and German Shepherds (or cross breeds). Your work is mainly outdoors, running around with dogs. It simply won’t do to have a service dog trainer that cannot keep up with the dogs. Personality traits an employer would look for are patience, excellent communication skills, compassion and excellent people skills. Of course, you must also display a love and passion for dogs! Also, some employers will expect you to pass written exams, and may even require you to participate in field tests.
Conlusion – How to become a service dog trainer
How do you become a service dog trainer? With lots of hard work! It will take a number of years to get there, but if you want to have a fantastic career spending time with animals you love, and know that your work is helping vulnerable people get the best out of their lives, then you will not be put off by the above. Being a service dog trainer is an incredibly rewarding career!
We hope this guide on how to become a service dog trainer has helped you and gave you some insights! Good luck!
Want to start with Rottweiler Puppy Training? Don’t feel intimidated by their formidable size, some have called them gentle giants. Rottweilers are in general good natured, especially with the correct training from a young age. They are eager to please their owners, very intelligent and loyal. Rotties are fearless, self-assured and levelheaded. But if not properly trained and socialized they can struggle with aggression issues.
Tame Your Rottie Before It Is Too Big To Manage
Training a puppy is always important, but when it comes to big dog breeds, it’s crucial to invest lots of time in training. Rottweiler puppy training is especially important if you notice your dog has an aggressive streak. This will be displayed as a growl or snap when you feed it. Or an inappropriate reaction to a stranger or other dog in your home. Once you’ve noticed these aggressive reactions, even while you are playing with your puppy, you need to address it immediately.
Rottweilers got a bad reputation after being used in dogfights and some breeders focus on bringing out their aggressive nature. Make sure you pick a reputable breeder so that you don’t have to struggle with managing your dog. Read this article to find out how to find a reputable Rottweiler breeder
Rottweiler Puppy Training Tips
Each dog has its own temperament to deal with. Although Rottweilers can be very obedient dogs, some have a very stubborn streak in them and might ignore your commands, or simply keep disobeying you. But if you follow a few basic rules, you should be able to tame your wild Rottie.
The biggest dog training trick: patience. Remember, this will be an ongoing commitment, especially while your Rottie is still a puppy. With patience and consistency you will be able to mold your dog’s temperament.
Step 1: Start Young
Before bringing your Rottie puppy home, decide on the house rules you want to teach it and stick to these. Make sure all the members in your household know the do’s and don’ts. For the best results, start training between 6 weeks and 6 months.
If you’re adopting an older Rottie, you need to be aware that the training process will take more time and effort. And lots of patience. But because Rottweilers love pleasing their masters, your dog will soon catch on to what is acceptable behavior in your home. Positive Reinforcement Training will yield the best results.
Step 2: Patience
This step might sound easy, but it will be the trickiest to remain consistent with. Your Rottie will not necessarily instantly catch on to what you expect from it. Repeating the same training steps over and over can become frustrating.
It’s important to remain positive while you are busy with Rottweiler puppy training. Dogs are very sensitive to the moods of their owners. If you become angry with your Rottie because it’s not catching on to the trick you’re trying to teach it, the dog will become frazzled. You need to engage in training when you and your dog have high energy levels. Read this article to find out more about the best time for dog training.
Step 3: Understand Dominance
You might be familiar with the concept of teaching your dog that you are the Alpha in the pack, and it has to obey you at all times? Dominance based training is an outdated form of dog training. You cannot beat your dog into submission.
When dealing with a breed with an underlying tendency towards aggressive behavior, this technique can backfire on you. Being kind and understanding while training your dog, will yield much better results. Remember, your Rottie wants to please you, focus on this natural inclination and it will yield much better results.
Step 4: Socialize Your Rottie
You need to remember that your cute little puppy will grow into a big, robust dog. Whatever behavior it falls into as a puppy, it will continue doing as an adult dog. So think wisely what you allow your Rottie to do. You have the power to shape its temperament into happy and sociable.
Your dog might be fine with interacting with you and your family members, but you need to expose it to strangers from a young age so that it can learn how to interact with unfamiliar people and animals. A very important aspect of Rottweiler puppy training, is to make sure your dog knows how to properly interact with other dogs, for instance in the park. Otherwise taking it for walks will be a nightmare.
Step 5: Positive Reinforcement
This is a much more effective Rottweiler puppy training method. Acceptable behavior followed by a reward, is a language your dog understands. Even using it in reverse, saying “bad dog” and ignoring your dog when it does something you dislike, will work as well. The reward can be a treat, but your dog will be happy with you simply showering it with praise after doing something right.
Turn your training sessions into a game, and your Rottie will become putty in your hand. But beware of too many snack rewards, Rottweilers are notorious for struggling with their weight. And once your dog is overweight, it will be a big struggle to bring them back to a healthy size.
Step 6: Be Prompt With Your Reactions
Dog’s live in the moment. They do not have the ability to connect bad behavior with delayed punishment. For instance, dragging your puppy to the pee on your Persian carpet, rubbing its nose in it and giving it a hiding hours after the incident, will only make your dog fearful of you. It will not prevent it from peeing on the carpet in the future.
With good or bad behavior that you want to enforce or prevent, you need to catch your Rottie in the act and immediately either praise or reprimand it. And your timing needs to be exact, the moment your puppy obeys the command, you need to reward it.
When starting with your Rottweiler puppy training, firstly focus on a few basic commands before you move on to more fun tricks. By using a positive reinforcement style, you can ensure that your Rottie is a well-adjusted member of your family and interacts well with strangers, both people and other dogs.
This should be the first command you teach your Rottie puppy. It’s an essential tool that will make your life much easier. While you are training your cute puppy, envision a full-grown Rottweiler in your head as motivation to be as strict as possible with your training methods.
Your puppy needs to be completely focused on you for the training to be successful. Don’t just rely on your voice, use a simple hand signal with all the commands you teach your puppy. This way you can grab the dog’s attention both visually and audibly. Keep the verbal commands short, “sit” instead of “sit down”.
This isn’t just a nice party trick command, it will also be useful should you need to clip your dog’s nails. For this command to be effective, your Rottie needs to first master the basic command of “sit”.
Another crucial command to teach your Rottie. You need to set clear boundaries of what behavior is acceptable at your house, as well as outside while you’re on a walk or in the park. For this command to be successful, you need to use a firm and disciplining tone of voice. You can also replace the word “no” with “bad” or “stop”. In the end it’s not the word itself that will stop your Rottie in its tracks, it is the way you say it that will make your dog pay attention. Remember to react quickly so that your dog can make the association between specific behavior and the reprimand.
This is a more tricky command to master. Again, you can only teach your Rottie this one after it is familiar with the “sit” command. In the beginning you can use your hand to gently push your Rottie down into a laying position until your dog understand that you want it to lie down. Use your hand in a downward motion with palm facing down while saying “down”.
This one can be quite frustrating to teach. Be prepared for lots of repetition and a challenge on your ability to remain patient with your dog. When you start feeling frustrated or annoyed with your Rottie, rather stop the training session and try again the next day. You can either start this Rottweiler puppy training phase with the “sit” or “down” command, whichever works best for you and your dog.
This command follows on the “stay” command. Your Rottie will enjoy this one much more than sitting still in one spot, the breed loves the company of its master.
Conclusion: Effective Rottweiler Puppy Training
Rottweiler puppy training is a joy because you are working with a breed that wants to work with you. Tap into your Rottie’s natural need to please you, and the training process will be much easier. Remember to not use harsh methods, you do not want to trigger an aggressive reaction from your dog. It will only be retaliating out of fear. With lots of patience, consistency and lots of affirmation your little puppy will grow into a gentle giant.
What is your experience of Rottweiler puppy training? Do you have a submissive Rottie or one with a stubborn streak?
They say mountain biking is the new golf….everyone is doing it! And I totally see why! It is great exercise and you get to do it in beautiful nature reserves or bike trails! With so many people getting into mountain biking, it makes sense that a lot of those folks would also be dog lovers, and so would want to include their furry companions when they go out riding.
But is it as simple as jumping on your bike and have your dog follow you? Andries from UpPedal has created a very nice infographic that highlights some of the do’s and don’ts you should keep in mind when you decide to take your dog out when you go mountain biking.