If you’re looking for more advice and information, check out the purebred dog articles here.

Cavapoo – is it breed, history, how it was created, features

The idea and the appearance of a hybrid

The idea to create a cavapoo hybrid originated in Australia in the 1990s. The breeders who came up with such a combination wanted to get a small, compact dog with non-shedding, hypoallergenic hair and an attractive exterior. The first litters born were very varied in terms of external features, but they liked them so much that soon hybrid lovers in the United States became interested in them. This is where cavapoo made his greatest career.

The name of the hybrid – cavapoo or cavoodle – comes from the combination of fragments of the names of the original breeds: cavalier spaniel and poodle, in two configurations that function essentially equally, although cavapoo is the more known and more frequently used name. The names of other hybrids are created in the same way. For example, a cross between a Maltese and a miniature poodle is maltipoo (maltese + poodle), and a cross between a Labrador and a poodle – labradoodle (labrador + poodle). In all cases, however, it is a crossbreed and not a new breed.

In Poland, hybrids are also enjoying increasing popularity, and their breeders (although it is difficult to apply this term to them) have established their own association – the Hybryd Breeders Association, where you can learn how to breed dogs from crossbreeds of various breeds. Cavapoo is also bred under the name of this organization.

Cavapoo – characteristics

There is no cavapoo pattern. This hybrid was created, like all the others, not by biologists specializing in genetics, but by amateurs, not quite able to define in detail what features a hybrid should have. Everything happens by chance. Only a few breeders, having any assumptions, use breeding selection and leave individuals for further reproduction that – in their opinion – meet the expectations.

A Cavapoo can be small or medium-sized, with a slight or slightly bulky build, with poodle-curly hair, or with a long and wavy coat like a Cavalier Spaniel. The starting breeds have drooping ears, so the cavapoo cannot have any other ears. Pendulous ears are recessive (yielding) in relation to standing ears, the gene for hanging ears must be present in both parents, and this is what happens in this case. The muzzle, on the other hand, may be of normal length as for a poodle or flattened as for a cavalier. Brachycephaly (shortening of the muzzle) is also inherited recessively and obtaining a cavapoo with a flat muzzle is possible only in the F2 generation.

Other features of the cavapoo appearance:

• Height at the withers: 22 – 35 cm
• Body weight: 3-11 kg
• Coat: dense, soft, wavy or curly
• COLOR: May vary according to parents’ colors. The most common are black and fawn (as in vizsla). Spotted and black and tan individuals can be obtained in the next generations.

Cavapoo – does it make sense to create hybrids?

Creating new generations

Creating a new breed is a laborious and lengthy process. It starts with the theory – defining the goal and methods and ways to achieve it. This requires many years of work, supported by scientific research, based on a thorough knowledge of the principles of genetics, methods of inheritance, properties of individual genes, methods of consolidating the desired features and eliminating undesirable ones. Only then does the selection of ancestors who can give offspring with the expected characteristics begins.

It should be realized that by mating two individuals of different races, you will never obtain in the first generation (F1) offspring with the characteristics you want to obtain. To understand this, you need to understand the basic principle of inheritance. Well, the descendant always receives 50 percent from each of the parents. his gene pool. Genes are arranged in chromosomes arranged in pairs. There are 39 pairs, which means the dog has 78 chromosomes. In each of them there are places strictly defined for individual genes. In each pair of chromosomes (one from the mother, the other from the father), these places correspond to each other – the genes located in them are responsible for the same features. Such a place is called locus (pl
loci). For example, in a dog at locus A there are coat genes, e.g. red and black and tan. If you associate a ginger (like a Vizsla) bitch with a black and tan (like a Polish hound) dog, then in locus A the puppy may have the red gene from the mother and the black and tan gene from the father. What will the puppy’s color be?

Whoever thought that the puppy would be a color between the two would be wrong. In this example, the puppy will be red after its mother. Why? Because some genes are dominant, some are recessive (retreating), and the red color gene is dominant over other variants (alleles) in this locus. So, no matter which allele the maternal ‘red’ allele encounters, the F1 pup will be red, and the other allele (paternal black and tan) will be dominated and invisible, but may be passed down to the F2 offspring. If it is met in a subsequent mating with the black and tan allele, black and tan puppies may be born. This principle is illustrated in the tables below.

F1 generation:

Ay – the ginger gene

At – black and tan gene

AyAy – red mother

AtAt – black and tan father

AyAt – red (heterozygous) offspring

F2 generation:

AyAy – Homozygous Ore (Dominant)

AyAt – heterozygous ore (carrier of the black and tan gene)

AtAt – black and tan (so-called recessive homozygous).

This is just one feature and the principle of heritability. But you should be aware that there are thousands of these features and they inherit – to put it very simply – according to this pattern, but not always the same. Hence, in hybrids in the F1 generation, a large “spread” in appearance, also occurring in the next generations. That is why it is so important to establish the goal to be achieved, mentioned earlier, and then to strictly select breeding and leave for further reproduction only individuals that are close to the intended one. In this way, at the end of the 1980s, the breeding of the Polish hunting spaniel began. It has been going on for about 40 years, and this breed is still not recognized by the FCI and is present at shows in the group of unrecognized breeds, without the right to titles.

Therefore, if someone, when asked how to start a breeding of cavapoo dogs, replies that it is enough to cover a cavalier bitch with a poodle or vice versa – he is very wrong. Unfortunately, this is how hybrids arise – without any scientific basis or practice. And this is not limited to knowing when you can bathe your puppy and what to feed him. Also check this article on dog breeds with hair instead of fur.

1. Compassion

The veterinarian meets with breeders, farmers and animal owners who are concerned about the condition of their animals. As a veterinarian, you need to be patient and sensitive when dealing with your owner’s emotions. In addition, animals should be treated with respect, whether they are pets, animals or livestock.

2. Manual dexterity

This is another feature that every veterinarian should demonstrate. Often times, an animal has to be held tighter when it is uncooperative, scared or angry. When an animal is treated or its health is physically assessed, it should be handled with great sensitivity and care. During surgical procedures, you need to show precise movements and be aware of where your hands are placed.

3. Communicativeness

Every veterinarian should easily provide instructions and guidance to his staff as well as to other professionals and members of the administration team. In addition, he must be able to effectively explain to the owner of the animal, in what condition it is, and how to take care of it. Directions should be clear and concise, provided in such a way that they are understandable to everyone.

4. Ability to solve problems

In order to correctly diagnose an animal, it is often necessary not only to perform a physical examination, but also to order imaging or laboratory tests. The animal is unable to tell the vet what hurts him, and the owner can often only describe the animal’s difference in behavior. This is why doctors should be skilled in identifying and diagnosing symptoms, behavioral changes, and other causes for concern.

5. Decisiveness

It happens that an animal is brought to the vet in a serious condition – wounded or seriously ill. Then you have to make a quick decision about what to do next, based on the various pieces of information. With many routine injuries and illnesses, you need to decide almost immediately how to treat your pet. It also happens that the owner discusses the treatment plan or its method with the vet.

6. Willingness to constantly expand knowledge

You have to face the truth: a vet’s job is a lot of effort. You have to spend many hours studying in and out of institutions. The educational material that every vet must learn is very extensive and even the most experienced doctors must update their knowledge from time to time. A veterinarian is usually also an expert in dermatology, immunology, anatomy, physiology and many other fields.

7. Stress resistance

This is an extremely important feature that every vet should have. A person who wants to work in the profession of a veterinarian must be prepared for unforeseen, often difficult situations that will have to be reacted to on an ongoing basis. Sometimes it will be necessary to use unconventional methods. The vet must not get carried away by nerves and stress. The vet needs to be able to keep a cool head and sometimes make a difficult decision (like putting your pet to sleep).

8. Appropriate approach to animals

Due to the fact that a difficult patient is an everyday life in a veterinary office, the ability to tame an animal is very useful at work, i.e. in such an approach that it is possible to diagnose it. The veterinarian must understand the needs of animals as much as possible so that his stay in the clinic is comfortable and does not cause unnecessary stress. A vet must love animals just as a pediatrician must love children. Calmness and a positive attitude are highly desirable features.

9. Efficient organization

When running your own veterinary surgery, it is necessary to manage your time well, plan, create schedules and coordinate many other works. Organizational skills are required in many professions, including that of a doctor. As a result, diagnostic work is faster and the animal is comfortable.

10. Developed technical skills

Employment, whether in a hospital or in a veterinary office, requires work on technical devices and diagnostic equipment. Advanced equipment guarantees accuracy when dealing with sick or injured animals. Therefore, the work requires not only book knowledge and experience, but also the ability to use newer and newer devices. You also need to be up to date with the latest solutions in the field of diagnostics and treatment of animals. In the case of independent surgery, it is also necessary to be able to use the software, develop and archive medical records.

Work outfit for a vet

In the work of a veterinarian, just like a doctor of other specializations, it is important to look good, so it is worth getting the best quality medical clothing. In our online store, every vet will find clothing tailored to his needs: gowns, medical kits, sweatshirts, medical shoes and much more.

A good vet – passion and commitment

To do the job of a veterinarian well, both professional knowledge and soft skills are required. It is important to be able to combine love for animals with a professional approach and objectivity. The ability to make decisions, precision and empathy are features without which it would be difficult to talk about the professional performance of this profession.

For more advice and information, check out the animal nutrition articles here too.

Toxicity of grapes and raisins – a new hypothesis

It has been known for many years that the administration of grapes and raisins can cause serious health problems in dogs. Interestingly, until recently, it was not known which ingredient of these fruits was responsible for this.

In the latest publications, however, there is information about the so-called tartaric acid. It is this substance that was most likely considered to be harmful! This information came from veterinarians at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center and two veterinary hospitals, and the information was published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association. Research needs to be extended, but the hypothesis is a valuable clue.

Note that tartaric acid and potassium bitartrate are found not only in grapes and raisins, but also in some confectionery products (Cream of Tartar) or tamarind paste used in Asian cuisine. It is also a component of popular plastic materials for children, such as play-dough. All these products can therefore cause health problems for your dog.

Grapes and Raisins – How Much Is the Dose Toxic to Your Dog?

The toxicity of grapes depends on many factors. Including possibly the concentration of tartaric acid, which varies depending on the grape variety. Manuals for veterinarians state that even 10-12 grapes pose a threat to the health and life of a dog. The lowest established toxic dose is currently 2.8 grams of raisins per kilogram of dog’s body weight. In the case of fresh grapes, it is around 19.6 g per kilogram of body weight. Symptoms of poisoning with raisins or grapes appear most often within 24 hours, although they may appear even several days after consuming a toxic dose. Also check this article with information on what a dog cannot eat.

Symptoms of poisoning with grapes and raisins

Let’s start with the fact that both grapes and raisins should be in our homes out of the dog’s reach. This rule applies to all toxic substances that should be placed in high cabinets or rooms where animals have no access.

Symptoms of poisoning include:

• vomiting,
• diarrhea
• stomach pain.

Over time, however, acute renal failure develops and animals present:

• lack of appetite
• weakness,
• incoherence of movements.

If you’re looking for more advice and information, check out the dog questions articles here as well.

Before the cold weather – what to think about before winter?

You should take care of your dog before winter starts. Before the cold weather, you must:

• Perform a preventive examination – each dog should undergo them at least once a year. Dogs that are mostly outdoors are exposed to extreme weather conditions, which can worsen their health. Cold definitely has a negative effect on dogs with joint disease. Similarly, animals with diabetes, heart disease, kidney disease, or hormonal imbalance have difficulty regulating their body temperature. With such pets, you should definitely think about a better shelter than a kennel. Research, research and research again!

• Provide your dog with a safe haven – it is not recommended to keep dogs outside during winter frosts, but if your quadruped is to spend a lot of time like this, provide him with a warm, solid shelter from cold and wind. Don’t forget about thick and dry bedding. However, avoid e.g. heaters or heating lamps due to the risk of burns or fire. The room or kennel must be large enough for the animal to sit comfortably and lie down or turn around. At the same time, it should be small enough to be warm and cozy. If you can, arrange them in a garage, porch or other shelter.

• Be prepared for difficult conditions – we haven’t had a harsh winter for a long time, but you always have to be prepared, for example, for blizzards and even power cuts. It is good to have some medications for dogs at home and a supply of canned or dry food.

Dog outside – what to do in winter?

When the cold weather sets in, there are a few things to consider. First, check your dog regularly and check his health. Check the paws for signs of injury or damage such as broken paw pads or bleeding. Check your dog’s behavior and look for signs of possible discomfort.

Second, take care of your dog’s proper diet. Your dog’s winter meals can be gently warm (as long as you serve him a home or wet food). In winter, animals outdoors will need more calories to generate enough heat and energy. It’s worth talking to your vet about this. Additionally, make sure that your person has unlimited access to fresh and non-frozen water. To do this, you need to change it more often or use a heated dog bowl.

Third, respond to any signs of said discomfort. If your pet:

• trembles
• he is anxious
• seems weak
• when he stops greeting you, it’s time to take him inside.

If you suspect your pet is hypothermic or frostbite, consult your vet immediately. Also check this article for tips on how to make a dog kennel.

Cosmetics for dogs – is there a way to frostbite?

On the pet market, there are mainly cosmetics intended for the pads of the dog’s paws, which protect them against cold and irritation by salt or other agents that may be on sidewalks or roads in winter.

A well-groomed coat is also important. Healthy has better insulating properties. So remember to brush your pet’s hair regularly. You can add a salmon oil supplement to your dog’s diet. It contains a lot of omega-3 fatty acids, which has a positive effect on the condition of the skin and coat. Other ingredients that have a beneficial effect on your dog’s skin and hair include:

• Vitamin A,
• Vitamin E,
• biotin,
• zinc.

Why don’t dogs eat meals?

If the situation in which the dog does not want to eat happens sporadically, and in the meantime he has not eaten anything during a walk or has not been served with anything by household members or guests, there is probably nothing to worry about. Dogs, like humans and other animals, also have their better and worse days. As a rule, skipping one meal is not a cause for concern.

Perhaps the doggie got fed during the day and is full, or has had a hearty dinner so he isn’t just hungry in the morning. Similarly, in the case of dinner – if the breakfast was solid, the dog may be simply full, so he does not want to eat dinner.

However, if the dog refuses to eat what it has liked so far, consult a veterinarian to rule out possible health causes. If he ate something while walking and then refuses to eat – for his safety also go to the vet.

Usually, however, the reasons why a dog refuses to eat or to eat casually are more prosaic and harmless. Most often, the dog does not eat because:

• he is not hungry – the smaller the size of the dog, the lower the daily caloric requirement. If he is calm and not very active – even more so. Often, however, in terms of food, we treat our dog friends “humanly” by serving them meals or snacks several times a day. If the dog ate his normal portion in the morning, and during the day he was served with delicacies – it may be full by evening, hence the reluctance to eat dinner;

• has constant access to food– a meal put in the dog’s bowl in the morning stays in it all day, so the pooch has constant access to it at all times? So it probably eats a little bit, you just can’t see it. This way you eat too – and a portion spread over the day can fill him up enough that he just does not want to eat a second meal;

• is overfed – each pet food manufacturer determines the daily amount per dog, taking into account its weight and activity level. If the pooch is very active, his portion may be increased. Often, however, we put the food “on the eye” and it may turn out that the less active animal is simply overfed and therefore does not want to eat another meal – because it has not had time to digest the previous one;

• he doesn’t like his food – dogs also have their favorite flavors! So it is possible that the dog does not eat or eats very little (just enough to satisfy its hunger) because it simply does not like what you give it. To confirm or rule out this, try another food: wholesome, wholesome and with delicious flavors: Venison and Lamb, like Empire. It is a brand of premium food known for its unique, even legendary taste. The delicious taste of our food is one of the things that our customers value very much!

• the way of serving meals is… boring for him! Yes! Dogs, even the smallest, sweet sandwiches, associated more with teddy bears than conquerors – are also! Dogs instinctively need to get. So if your pet’s food is always served directly under the nose and always in the same form – it can be simply boring for him!

There can be more reasons why dogs do not want to eat their meals. Remember that any behavior change that is not episodic in nature requires a medical consultation. In the event that the dog refuses to eat at all, no matter how attractive it is – such consultation is advisable immediately. It may be a sign of health problems, often even very serious ones.

How to encourage a dog eater to eat?

If you suspect that your pooch’s average appetite may be due to one or more of the situations listed above, the easiest way to find out is to change your approach to feeding your pet.

Some dogs, used to being given different treats during the day – often much more attractive than food – are just waiting… for better!

To encourage your dog to eat, it is worth:

• serve meals at a fixed time– regardless of whether you feed your pet once or twice a day. Do not leave the food bowl within reach of the pet. Share it at mealtime, for a while, then take it away and give it only at the next feeding time. This will help discipline a slightly picky and comfortable pet;

• vary the way food is served – dogs are conquerors! Therefore, try to give him part of the meal in such a way that he can … hunt him down. Feeding dry food in a olfactory mat or a toy that he needs to shake it off is a great way to spice up a dog’s meal – even one he loves on average;

• test other flavors – sometimes the food is simply not very attractive: both in terms of taste and smell. Perhaps unpalatable food is a significant cause of your doggie’s hunger strikes. So try another, attractive in terms of taste and smell – like the Empire food, consisting of 80% fresh meat: venison and lamb;

• reduce portions – a person, when they eat a lot at once, often doesn’t feel like eating more for the rest of the day. So if you suspect that the dog is simply overeated – divide the daily amount into several portions, and then the problem may solve itself;

• give food in the form of a reward– dogs are craving for praise and prizes, and they can do a lot for their treats! Serving food instead of treats is one way to make it gain value in the eyes of your pet. It’s also a great way to serve up a portion of the meal: as a reward and in fun!

Remember that each dog is different, although each has a lot in common with the rest of its species. Both the Little York and the Big German Shepherd have a similar instinct: hunting and capture. It is therefore worthwhile to diversify his meals: delicious, healthy and fragrant food, as well as the method of its administration. Your pet will like it!

We will need a few things to learn. Treats that we will reward the dog with will surely be useful. If you know how to use a clicker and your pooch is conditioned to it, you can use it. If your pooch does not know the clicker, we will mark the desired dog behavior with a short, sonorous word “yes”. The last thing we need is a target. I use a yellow cloth for this, but you can use any item here. It is important that it is not too big and clearly visible to the dog.

Warm-up

During the warm-up, we want to teach the dog to touch the target with the front paw. We put the treat on the floor and cover it with a target. We mark with a clicker or a voiced “yes” word every time the target is touched with the dog’s front paw, and of course reward this behavior. Certainly some of your dogs will try to get to the treat with their teeth. In this case, hold the target with your hand to prevent the dog from eating the treat. After a few unsuccessful attempts, the dog will finally start using the front paws.

If your dog knows the “give the paw” command, you can use it during warm-up. We put the target on the hand and ask the dog to give us a paw. We praise him and reward him for carrying out the command. With each subsequent repetition, we keep the hand with the target lower and lower, until we finally put it on the floor. When the dog touches the target lying on the ground with its front paw, we can proceed to the next stage of learning.

Stage 1 Target with the front paw in a supine position

We ask the dog to lie down. Then we put the target between the dog’s front paws. We mark with a clicker or a voiced word “yes” and of course reward each touch of the target with a paw. It is worth looking at which paw the dog is pointing to. After about three attempts, mark and reward the dog for touching the target with only one chosen paw. This will make the next stages of learning easier for us. In the future, of course, you can teach your dog to cross the other paw, but it’s better to do it separately. Otherwise, everything can be wrong for the dog.

My dogs have been taught a lot of muzzle targeting. It is a very useful skill when learning a lot of tricks or when marking the smell in a nasal bag. Unfortunately, when learning how to cross the front paws, we want the dog to target us with its paw, not its mouth. Therefore, if the dog begins to target its mouth, you can simply take the target away and not reward the dog for the behavior. If this problem persists, I advise you to go back to warming up and strengthen your dog for paw targeting.

Stage 2 Crossing the paws

When the dog is happy to touch the target with the selected paw, we can move on to the next stage of learning. With each subsequent repetition, we move the target farther and farther so that the dog finally crosses its front paws. Of course, we still mark and reward touching the target with a paw. In this way, gradually, in small steps, we teach the dog to cross its front paws.

The most difficult moment here is when we carry the target with the paw lying on the ground and ask the dog to cross its paws. Many dogs may find it easier to touch the target with the other paw. That is why consistency is so important when working at an earlier stage. If in the first stage we rewarded the dog only for the target, e.g. with the right paw, now it will be easier for him to understand that we are still asking him to target with the right paw. However, when the dog tries to touch the target with his left paw, we simply take the target away and do not reward him for such behavior. If this error repeats, it is worth returning to the previous stage of the exercise. Remember not to force learning to speed up. It is better to divide the whole training into smaller stages than to demand things from the dog that are still too difficult for him.

Stage 3a We add a gesture

When the dog is nicely crossing the front paws of the target, you can start entering the verbal command and gesture. For most dogs, our body language is more understandable than the words we say. Therefore, entering a gesture is usually simpler than teaching the dog to perform a trick on a verbal command alone.

First, we must, of course, choose a gesture. This may be, for example, a finger pointing where the dog is to put its paw. However, I chose the gesture made with the foot. I want to teach my dog ​​to cross its front paws when I cross my legs. How to teach it? First, it is worth repeating the exercise from the second stage in a standing position. Remember that dogs do not generalize and learn contextually poorly. This means that many details are important for a dog, which we do not always pay attention to, e.g. what position we have when giving a command. Therefore, if you have already exercised with your dog, kneeling or sitting, and you would like to show the gesture while standing, you must first teach the dog to cross its front paws when you are standing in front of it.

When this is achieved, we move on to the next stage of learning. We make a predetermined gesture and put the target in such a place that the dog crosses its front paws. We mark this behavior with a clicker or a voiced “yes” word and reward. After a few successful repetitions, we are trying to withdraw the targeting. We make a gesture and wait if the dog has already guessed what we mean. If so, of course we mark the crossing of the paws, praise the dog and reward. However, when the pooch needs a hint in the form of a target, let’s give it to him. We don’t want him to become unnecessarily frustrated while learning. Remember that it is your job to clearly explain to your dog what you mean.

Stage 3b We add the word command

We also enter the word command in a similar way. You can enter them yourself or combine them with a gesture. If we want the dog to cross its front paws at just a verbal command, we do it similarly to entering a gesture. This time, instead of showing the dog a gesture, we say a verbal command. Then we guide the dog with the target so that it crosses its front paws. After a few successful repetitions, we try to withdraw the targeting and check if the dog can already follow the commands just on the word.

If we have a previously worked out gesture for this trick, the sequence of actions should be as follows. First, we say a verbal command that the dog does not know yet, and only then we show a gesture that is already known to him. Over time, you can start to slowly withdraw the gesture and teach the dog to cross his paws on the verbal command.

Remember that the word you choose for this trick must not be similar to any other commands your dog already knows. My dogs know the word “paw” in various forms. We have an ordinary “paw”, on which dogs put my front paw in my hand. We also have a “paw” command when I ask dogs to get out of the leash during a walk. I also use the words “First paw, second paw, punch … etc.” when wiping mud from paws after a walk. My dogs are taught to raise all four paws one by one for these words. Therefore, in my case, the verbal command to cross the front paws cannot be anything related to the word “paw”. Instead, I use the word “right” for the crossing of the right paw and “left” for the crossing of the left paw. I do not recommend this solution to people who are often wrong on both sides. 😛

I am very curious how you like this trick and will your dogs teach it?

If you’re looking for more advice and information, check out the dog questions articles here as well.

A new dog house – what instead of a shelter?

A dog can be troublesome. Both puppies and adult quadrupeds can show aggression and destructive behavior. It happens that the guardian has difficulties with keeping the animal due to the change of financial situation or his illness. In addition, it may also be a problem to provide a chronically ill animal with proper care. There are many difficult situations.

Dismissing your dog at a shelter is better than ditching it, but by taking a moment of your time, you can find a much better solution. Try to put your dog up for adoption thanks to the help of numerous animal foundations. Perhaps their activists will organize a temporary home for the dog and take over looking for a new guardian for him. In this way, the animal will avoid at least some of the stress and discomfort. You can also use social media. There are dog lover groups or visible hand communities where you can find people who can adopt your pet or help you find one.

Nothing came of it? In that case, it’s time to consider putting your dog in a shelter. We check how it can be done and what the cost must be.

How to return a dog to the shelter? – procedure for returning the dog to the shelter

There are state and private shelters in Poland. The largest of them are located in cities such as:

• Warsaw,
• Gdansk,
• Poznan,
• Olsztyn,
• Wroclaw,
• Cracow.

However, there are more small establishments. When looking for a place to return an unwanted dog, consider not only the nearby location, but also your opinion about the place.

The dog is handed over to the facility after it has appeared in person. It will be necessary to give up the dog and sign the relevant documents, which will contain the data from your ID card. The procedure for returning a dog is as follows:

• Contact the representatives of the respective shelter. During the conversation, you will be asked to provide a reason for wanting to relinquish your pet’s rights. It happens that volunteers help if the reason for the donation is, for example, behavioral problems.
• The shelter staff will also ask you for the dog’s medical records and fill in a questionnaire.
• After the shelter’s approval, you bring your dog to the facility and sign the relevant documents.
• In some establishments it is payable and costs several dozen or several hundred zlotys. Ask in advance for the cost at the chosen hostel.
• After completing the formalities, the dog is taken into the care of the shelter.

If you have such an opportunity, also leave the dog’s toys, bedding or food that he has eaten at the shelter. Also check this article on adopting a dog from a shelter.

Returning the dog taken from the shelter – what is worth knowing?

Another issue is whether and how you can return your adopted dog from the shelter. When deciding to adopt a dog for adoption, you need to be prepared for various problems. Lots of animals are out. Some of them have never lived indoors and may find it difficult to learn to do things outdoors. Others have experienced violence or starvation, so they eat greedily and may defend their bowl aggressively. You have to be ready for all of this. This is one reason puppies find new homes faster. With adult animals, there are times when certain situations overwhelm the new handler.

What to do then? Contact the shelter. It’s free, and you might get help or advice. It is usually possible to put your dog in a shelter, but losing another home is a huge harm for the animal. This is a high price that we often forget!

Why don’t dogs like wiping their paws?

Wiping your paws is not normal for dogs. In nature, no one wipes mud from wild dogs. Therefore, suddenly grabbing the dog’s paws after a walk and trying to rub them forcibly is not the best idea. By doing this, your pooch will at least be surprised by your behavior. In extreme cases, fear and even aggression may also appear. If you want your dog to easily handle rubbing his paws, you must first get him used to this activity.

Many dogs also have quite sensitive paws and don’t like being touched by humans. Perhaps it is also related to the fact that in nature a dog with injured paws cannot get food and is basically doomed to death. If your pooch does not like to lick his paw, even in the form of a trick, he takes it at the last minute so that you do not touch it, stiffens, moves away from you, looks away, licks his nose, yawns, blinks his eyes or shows other signs of stress or threatening signals. like staring at you, snarling etc. you will definitely have to spend more time getting your dog used to wiping his paws.

When to start getting your dog used to wiping their paws?

The sooner we start getting your dog used to wiping his paws, the better. This treatment can be performed in the form of play with small puppies. Don’t wait until fall or winter to get your dog used to wiping his paws. The entire process may take a day or two, but it may also take longer. It is very important to give your dog as much time as he needs. You may find that you do not manage to wipe each paw thoroughly during the first sessions, and this is normal. Therefore, it is best to start getting used to it when it is sunny, dry and it is not necessary to wipe the dog’s paws.

The whole process is best broken down into as small steps as necessary for your dog. Only when the pooch accepts one stage, we move on to the next. You cannot rush or force anything here. We want to gain the dog’s trust and make him feel calm and safe while wiping his paws.

Touching paws

It is worth getting your dog used to wiping his paws by getting him used to just touching them. This is the first, necessary step not only when washing or wiping the paws, but also, for example, when trimming a dog’s claws. It is best to start getting your dog used to touching his paws when he is rushing, tired, full, and when all his basic needs are met. We can gently reach lower and lower towards the fingers by stroking the dog’s shoulder blade or thigh. It is important that our touch is calm and pleasant for the dog. We do not grasp his paw by force, but we also do not tickle him too softly. During such stroking, we praise the dog with a calm voice. You can also reward him with a treat for his calm behavior. Over time, the dog will allow us to touch not only his shoulder blades or thighs, but also knees, elbows, and finally fingers and claws. As soon as your dog starts sending you anxious signals, take a short break. Give him a rest and return to a more pleasant touch.

Raising paws

Once your dog is letting them touch its paws, it can begin to get used to it to pick them up. We put a hand on the dog’s shoulder and slide down slowly. Many dogs don’t like to be grabbed by their fingers, so it’s better to grab a little higher. Then we slightly raise the dog’s paw to a small height, praise, reward and put the paw back on the floor. We do the same with the hind legs. We put a hand on the thigh, slide down, grab the metatarsus and gently lift the hind leg. We praise the dog and reward it for its calm behavior. If the pooch is not behaving calmly, we go back to the previous stage, i.e. getting him used to the touch.

When lifting the dog’s paws up, it is worth paying attention not to bend them in an unnatural, uncomfortable way for the dog. It is often more convenient for us to wipe the dog’s paw when we raise it higher or when we move it closer to each other. However, it is worth taking into account the fact that the dog may have problems with maintaining balance in an unnatural position for him. We should also make sure that the dog stands on a stable, non-slippery surface when lifting the paws. If your floor is slippery, it is a good idea to put a towel or non-slip mat over it.

I like to put a password to picking dogs’ paws. This is not a formal command like “give a paw”, but rather a message to the dog that I will be lifting its paw up. Thanks to this, the pooch knows what awaits him and has time to prepare for this activity. Before lifting the first paw, I always say “first paw,” before lifting the second paw, “second paw,” etc. After saying these words, I give the dog a moment to prepare to raise a particular paw. I always try to pick them up in the same order. Thanks to this, the dog knows what will happen and after some time it starts giving me another paw. It is worth introducing yourself such a ritual after each walk. This will give the dog a more predictable sense of what will happen and make the dog feel more confident in this situation.

Touching the towel with the paws

The next step in getting your dog used to wiping his paws should be teaching him to touch the towel with his paws. Thanks to this game, your pooch will not only not be afraid of the towel, but will also positively associate it. To teach your dog to touch a towel with his paws, simply place the treat on the ground and cover it with the towel. Then ask the pooch to look for the hidden treat. As soon as his paw touches the towel, you can mark it with a clicker or a sonorous word “yes” and give the dog an additional reward.

If your pooch knows the command “give a paw” you can take advantage of it. Take the towel in your hand and ask the dog to give you the paw by placing it on the towel. Many dogs do this exercise much more willingly than the classic handing of a paw to an empty human hand. Unfortunately, when training with a dog to pass the paw, we often have a tendency to squeeze the dog’s fingers and wave the entire paw, which dogs usually do not like very much. As soon as the pooch puts his paw on the towel by himself, praise him and give him a treat.

Give your dog a choice

A sense of security and control, especially in a stressful situation, is extremely important not only for dogs, but also for us. Just think how you feel at the dentist when you trust him that he does not want to hurt you and you know that you can ask for a short break in tooth drilling at any time. How would you feel if you weren’t sure the dentist wouldn’t hurt you, and if all your requests for a break while drilling were ignored? It is exactly the same for a dog that does not trust a human being and whose paws are held down or lifted forcibly. Therefore, watch your dog’s behavior. Learn to read the first signs of stress and respond accordingly.

Body language is very important when wiping our paws. It is definitely better to sit on the floor or crouch and invite the dog to come to us than to chase him with a towel or bend over him. Bending over a dog is especially stressful for puppies and little dogs. I would also be afraid if a giant several times bigger than me wanted to grab my leg and lift it up. The dog’s approach to you is the first sign that it is ready to wipe its paws. What if, despite the encouragement, the dog refuses to approach you? In such a situation, it is worth getting back to getting him used to the touch and lifting his paws.

However, when the pooch comes up, you can reach out with a towel and say, for example, “first paw, punch”. If the pooch has been taught this slogan well beforehand, he knows that we expect a paw. The towel with our slogan is therefore an invitation for the dog to wipe its paws. Then we wait for the dog to give us the paw. This is the moment when we give him the opportunity to choose. He can give us a paw and receive a lot of praise and treats, or not give us this paw. Let us respect the choice of the dog here. If, for some reason, he is not yet ready to give us a paw, that’s too bad. We’ll try next time. I think now you can see why it is worth starting the whole process when it is dry and when it is not necessary to wipe your dog’s paws.

Training in which we give the dog the opportunity to choose a given behavior takes more time than force action. However, by force wiping a dog’s paws against his will makes the dog stressful and loses his trust in us. So with time he will avoid this unpleasant situation more and more. When all calming and threatening signals are ignored by the handler, the dog will eventually resort to aggressive behavior. At best, we’ll have to deal with wiping the dog’s paws all our lives, and at worst we’ll be bitten by it. However, in the case of training, in which we give the dog the opportunity to choose and have greater control of the whole situation, we build a relationship based on understanding and trust. Such a relationship will translate into the dog’s behavior not only when wiping its paws, but also in other stressful situations.

A new household member changes the life of the whole family. Stan are the best friend who will provide lots of smiles. It should be noted that the animal has its own individual needs that must be met. Walks, toys, your own angle are the basic requirements. Nutritional issues cannot be ignored as well, and these are responsible for the proper development and health of the pooch.

Dry food or wet food?

A varied diet will be the best solution. Just as humans do not, or should not, eat only one type of meal, animals should eat a varied diet. It’s good to include both types of food in your pet’s menu. However, remember about the differences and dosage.

Dry dog ​​food

Quadrupeds like to munch on something from time to time. Their bones fall prey, but much less mess is caused by dry food. It contains from 7% to 9% water and, importantly, it contains more calories in a smaller volume. This must be borne in mind when serving a meal. In this case, small portions are filling. There is no point in overdoing the quantity.

A dry dish is tasty for dogs and helps clean up plaque. When biting, the hard pieces rub plaque from the surface of the teeth and stimulate the gums. Thanks to this, the four-legged householder takes care of the good condition of the oral cavity. You can find dry dog ​​food at https://apetete.pl/karmy-suche-dla-psa.html.

Dog wet food

It is worth taking care of variety in the diet of a four-legged friend. Wet food has high humidity (even over 75%). Therefore, in order to provide the same caloric content as the dry food, more of it is necessary to fill the dog to his heart’s content. At the same time, it is a good solution for animals that have chewing problems.

Wet food resembles the achievements of carnivores. So it’s no surprise that dogs are eager to peek into the bowl in search of it. These types of products are served to animals that are prone to overweight or obese.

The high humidity of the consumed products meets the water demand. This is especially true for miniature dogs that are prone to urolithiasis. Nevertheless, the dog should always have access to a bowl of fresh water.

Good composition of dog food

The best feeds have a composition that could be approved for human consumption without any contraindications. So it is worth paying attention to what is in the food.

When reading the composition, pay attention to:

• meat and fish – at least 50% of the composition should be animal products (meat, fats, oil, offal),
• eggs – a rich source of protein,
• oils – contain Omega-3, EPA and DHA acids,
• vegetables and fruits – dogs are not ruthless carnivores like cats. They are eager to eat easily digestible products such as tomatoes, potatoes, apples, spinach and blackberries.

Dry karma or morka – that is the question!

A varied diet is the best solution for your pet. So make sure you have a solid dose of wet food and small portions but more caloric portions of dry food. Pay attention to the composition so that it meets the pet’s needs. Thanks to this, he will be healthy and joyful.

Holy Grail – purebred puppies for free

Legends say that there are cases of free donation of purebred puppies. The problem is that while browsing through hundreds of ads, we’ve never seen a 100% real offer of this type. Usually it turned out that something was wrong with the advertisement after all.

There is a demand for purebred dogs, there must be advertisements and attempts to cheat. Some of the ads are real, others are not. Moderators on classifieds websites try to catch the more suspicious ones, but sometimes something passes. Let’s see what to expect and how to spot a scam!

Fictitious ads

Unfortunately, most of the ads that grab the attention of all bargain hunters are, unfortunately, fiction. Such advertisements are added to extort personal data or “obtain” an advance payment for a puppy’s reservation. There are also cases that theoretically the dog is completely free – you only have to cover the costs of shipping from some country to Poland. For example, $ 100 payable before shipping. The content of the advertisement depends only on the creativity of the adder. You have to be careful not to be deceived!

How to recognize a fictitious advertisement?

Most often, the content of the advertisement is written in broken Polish. Reading the description, it’s easy to spot strange statements. If something sounds unusual – read it a second time.

Below is an example of the content of an advertisement that has been rejected by site moderators:

“Wonderful puppies Pomeranian Teacup, 1 male and 1 female, AKC registered. Parents are the family’s pets; both mum and dad weigh 4 pounds. They are all loving, friendly and very fun. They grew up with children and other animals. Knotted tails and dewclaws removed, veterinary check included and first set of kicks for the dog. “

Another announcement:

“Beautiful puppies of West Highland White Terrier breed
The puppies were veterinary tested, potty trained, wormed with microchips. “

Another example (this time labrador puppies for free):

“Top quality puppies with all health information and toy accessories for puppies. They stay up to date with shots that do well with children and other pets. These cute puppies are waiting for you “

As you can see, you don’t even need to be particularly vigilant to notice that something is wrong here. Also pay attention to how the sender writes back the correspondence with you. Any strange statements should make you alert!

The second thing is photos. They usually do not represent the dogs that are actually for sale. These are photos taken from some source. Easily verify the origin of the photo with the help of Google’s image search engine.

In the case of the advertisement from which the first cited description came, the photo was copied directly from a facebook profile:

Another important point – always check who is issuing the advertisement. Usually, suspicious content is displayed by people without a Polish name, such as John Cosworth, Millano, Antonio, Margaritha and others.

Adult purebred dogs to donate or at a low price

These are ads that are usually true. In general, they are not pedigree dogs (although there are also pedigree dogs), but dogs that are of the breed type or very similar to them. In the case of an adult dog, we can already see the end result and it is easier to judge whether it is this breed or another, and whether we like such a dog or not.

Advertisements with purebred dogs for donation are most often issued by shelters. Larger facilities share information about the breed – if identified. It also happens that people want to give the dog back for some important reasons and look for a good home for him. At the Seller, as of the day of writing the article, we have over 780 offers of dogs to give away for free: https:// Sprzedawacz.pl/zwierzeta/psy/psy_zwierzeta/ Most of them come from shelters. If we look for purebred animals (or in the type of a given breed), it turns out that most dogs are between 5 and 10 years old! Dogs of the type of selected breeds currently account for about 10% of advertisements.

Adopting an adult dog is also a very good idea. Perhaps sometimes even better and simpler than raising a puppy. On the one hand, we already know what will grow out of him or her. On the other hand, during adaptation visits, we can get to know the character. From the third, we help and we can make a great friend and give him a new home. There are several more reasons for choosing an adult dog, but you still need to know if you want a dog that is already several years old.

Almost purebred dogs and puppies without pedigree

If the father and mother of the dog are known and both animals are of the type of a given breed, there is a chance that, despite the lack of a pedigree, you will be able to occasionally buy a dog of the breed you want – although formally it will not be purebred. Remember, however, that if a dog is cheap, all possible breeding costs are probably cut. Alternatively, someone actually does does not deal breeding and simply the female dog gave birth to puppies that need to be distributed or sold cheaply. Check what is the real source of such a dog.

Almost purebred puppies are those where we can be sure that the mother is of the X type and the father is unknown. The question is whether the person issuing the advertisement will tell you about it? As a result, it may turn out that the father was a dog of a larger breed than the mother was. What if York weighs 15 kg when he grows up? When buying or taking such a dog for free, you must take this possibility into account. If you accept that the dog will be different, that’s great. If his raciality was the key to you, then don’t go this way!

True purebred dogs (with pedigree)

When the breed of a puppy is a priority for you, do not compromise, just pay the market price and be sure that the dog will be exactly what you expect. Pedigree dogs are, unfortunately, expensive. The cultures have to meet the standards and all the associated stuff costs more. Only registered dog kennels together with the dog provide the owner with a birth certificate. The price is higher, but you can be sure what will grow out of a puppy!

Interestingly, if you decide to choose a fully purebred dog, you will also get to know its family tree. Yes, you will know who your dog’s grandfather was!